Sleeve plackets



Sept 10, 1957 A. SPECTOR 2,805,423

SLEEVE PLACKETS File d May 18, 1956 uvmvrm FIG. 7 ANNA SPECTOR ATTORNEY United States Patent C) SLEEVE PLACKETS Anna Spector, Chicago, Ill.

Application May 18, 1956, Serial No. 585,760

4 Claims. (Cl. 2-125) This invention relates generally to sleeves for garments and more particularly, relates to an improved sleeve structure for shirts and the like which features a novel placket structure characterized by singular advantages in the manufacture of the placket and enhancement of the appearance of the sleeves when worn.

Heretofore, placket structures for sleeves were formed laterally spaced from and generally parallel with the longitudinal seam joining adjacent edges of the fabric panel forming the sleeve. Such plackets also included reenforcing hems along the edges of the placket opening which by reason of the location of the placket could not be sewn at the same time as the longitudinal seam of the sleeve was completed. Hence, the placket was required to be made in an operation separate from the sewing of the sleeve with attendant increased cost of manufacture of the shirt. There are other advantages by reason of the direction of opening of the placket which resulted in the placket openingbeing visible in a manner detracting from the appearance of the sleeve when worn and generally contributing to a weakened part of the sleeve. Elimination of these problems is considerably complicated by reason of the cuifs secured on the end of the sleeves since the free ends of the cufi are closed around the wrist of the wearer; this requires the mating hems of the placket to overlap properly when the cuff ends are secured together. Smce the neat and attractive appearance of the sleeve is a most important factor contributing to a successful structure, this must be taken into account if the placket is to be feasible. 7

Accordingly, it is an important object of the invention to provide a sleeve structure having an improved placket which will substantially eliminate the disadvantages hereinabove enumerated.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved sleeve structure of the character described which is characterized by a placket construction capable of being formed at the same time as the longitudinal seam of the sleeve is completed.

Another object of the invention is to provide a sleeve structure of the character described in which the placket comprises a continuation of the longitudinal seam of the sleeve and includes reenforced edges disposed angularly relatively to the said seam, which are matingly overlapped to conceal the arm of the wearer when the cuff is fastened.

A still further object is to design the improved placket in a manner to permit its insertion and fastening at the end of sleeve between the plies of the cuff, whereby to make a neat joint with the same.

An additional object is to provide a placket which is made from, and integral with, the material of the seam, requiring no additional or extra ply.

Another object is to provide a placket whose construction is not an expensive addition to the sleeve or other garment, but a simple development of the sleeve making process.

With the above objects in view, a better understanding Patented Sept. 10, 1957 ice of the invention may be gained by reference to the accompanying drawing, in which- Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a sleeve employing one form of the placket;

Fig. 2 is a similar view, showing the cuff unbuttoned for an interior view of the placket;

Figs. 3 and 4 are, respectively, magnified sections on the lines 33 and 4-4 of Fig. 1; and

Figs. 5 to 8 are similar views of a second form of the invention.

Referring to the drawing, the sleeve comprising the invention has been designated generally by the reference character 15. The general construction of such sleeve is Well known in that an elongate panel of fabric is rolled and conjoined along side edges thereof forminga longitudinal seam 16 extending the length of the sleeve. To the forward end of the sleeve is attached a cuff 20 the design of which is immaterial to the invention since same may be either the plain barrel, French or other type. In the drawing, cuif 20 is a simple double-ply structure with the forward end of the sleeve sandwiched between the plies and sewn thereto at 22. When the cuff 29 is fastened, the free ends of the cuff are brought into overlapped mating relation and engaged together either by a button or other fastener or cuff links depending upon the type of cuff carried on the sleeve. The placket in prior sleeve structures was located laterally spaced from and parallel to the seam 16 with the edges of the placket aligned with the free ends of the cuff.

The placket embodying the invention includes an opening which extends from a point on the seam 16 diagonally and downward across the sleeve to a corner of the cuff 20 at a free end thereof. To achieve such a structure a triangular section is removed from the body of the sleeve which provides the diagonal edge 18 seen in Fig. 1 and said edge 18 is folded under and hemmed as at 19 to reenforce the same. A triangular insert 25 is attached to the seam 16 and cuff 20 to underlie the triangular opening of the sleeve upon removal of said section, said insert 25 being secured along one edge to the sleeve by the seam 16 and along another edge thereof to the cuff by the stitching 22. The hypotenuse edge of insert 25 is folded under and hemmed as indicated at 27. The dimensions of the insert 25 are such that the hemmed edge 27 is spaced inwardly of and hence covered by the hemmed edge 19 when the cuff is fastened as in Fig. 5. In attaching insert 25 to the cuff, the lower left hand corner of the insert 25 as viewed in Figs. 1 and 2 connects with the inner corner of the cuff end. Thus, when the cult is closed around the wrist of the wearer, the hemmed edge 27 underlies the hemmed edge 19 with the body of insert 25 closing the placket opening. As seen in Fig. 1, since one end of the edge 19 meets a corner of the cuff at one free end thereof and the corner of insert 25 meets a corner of the opposite free end of the cuff, a neat, efiicient placket is achieved.

It will be appreciated that the diagonal edge 18 may be formed prior to sewing of the sleeve if desired and the insert 25 attached simultaneously with formation of the seam 16 and attachment of cuif 20. This eliminates the separate operation prevalent in prior art structures where the placket opening was parallel to and laterally spaced from the seam 16.

The form of the invention illustrated in Figs. 5 to 8 is similar as to the side of the placket formed with hem 19. However, on the opposite'side, the triangular section 25 is folded under along the hypotenuse edge with a fully doubled ply 30 which reaches to and is incorporated in the seam 16.

It will now be apparent that in both forms of the invention the placket employs the material of the sleeve from the course of the seam 16 to form an overlap, so that the sleeve is closed in a manner similar to a doublebreasted coat. The effect of this construction is not only to strengthen the sleeve where it meets the cuff, but also to create the placket or opening into the sleeve at the same time. However, due to the overlap, the opening is not a directio ne, so that the goods'of the placketcomp'lete'the sleeve and fully conceal thearm or wristiof. the wearer in theregion of'the plackettand in'the second'form of the invention one side of the placket. is reinforced by the fully-doubled portion 30,. adding strength to'ithe placket. Whereas the standardplacket'is considered the most expensive part of a shirt or blouse because 'of its special construction, it;will be' seen that the extension of the sleeve material in the present instance to form the improved placket makes for a minimum expense in the construction of the placket. A placket is thus had which is economical to produce neat and strong. Besides, it extends conveniently tosthe end of the sleeve for the regular stitching thereof into a cuff. Finally, the novel placket is not spacedfrom the seam of the garment but forms a neat development of the seam.

While I have described the two forms of the invention along specific lines,*various minorchanges or refinements may be made therein without departing from its principle, and I reservethe right'to employ all such changes and refinements as may come within the scope and spirit of the appended claims.

I claim: 4

l. A garment sleeve comprising a fabric member having a sewn seam conjoining a pair of side edges of the V membersubstantiallythe entire length of the sleeve, a

cuif secured to the forward end of the sleeve along a line'of stitching, a placket adjacent said forward end including a right triangular fabric insert having one side edge secured to the sleeve by said seam and a second side edge secured to the cuff along said line of stitching, said sleeve having a diagonal edge leading from the seam to a free end of the cuff and overlying the hypotenuse'side edge of the insert in the secured condition of the cuif, said hypotenuse edge leading from the opposite free end of the cuff to said seam adjacent said diagonal edge.

2. A garment sleeve comprising a fabric member having a longitudinal, sewn seam substantially the entire length thereof, a cuff member secured to the forward end of the sleeve along a line of stitching, a placket structure including a hemmed diagonal edge of the sleeve extending from said seam to a free end of said cuff and a right triangular body portion secured both to said sleeve and cuff along said seam and line of stitching respectively, said body portion having the hypotenuse side edge thereof extending from the seam to the second end of the cuff beneath said diagonal edge with said diagonal edge overlying the body portion when said free ends'of the cuff are fastened together.

3. In a garment sleeve having a longitudinally extending seam and a cuff attached at one end of the sleeve, a placket structure for said sleeve comprising an outeri's'ection including a diagonal, edge of the sleeve extending from the seam to the cuff, and an inner right triangular section likewise extending from said seam and cuff and including its hypotenuse edge disposed below and substantially parallel with said diagonal edge, said diagonal edge and hypotenuse edge being reenforced.

4. A sleeve as described in claim 2 in which said body portion is double-ply;

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 617,307 Bernstein Ian. 3, 1899 2,593,795 Rhoads et al Apr. 22, 1952 FOREIGN PATENTS. r 5,919 Great Britain May 19, 1900 597,921

Great Britain Feb. 5, 1948 

